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| Slotting the bridge http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5323 |
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| Author: | LarryH [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 7:01 am ] |
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I just read the thread about new stuff from StewMac and too have wondering about slotted vs non-slotted pins. The new pins look awesome but was wondering how you go about slotting the bridge/bridge plate. Slotless Bridge pins Thanks larry |
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| Author: | PaddyD [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 8:09 am ] |
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hi larry, i only use unslotted pins, so heres what i do, first you need to ream your bridge pins holes, for the first one take it slowly until you get the pin seated at the depth you want, then mark the reamer at that point so that the others will hopefully be pretty close to that mark. then you need a keyhole saw just lightly run a groove at the front of the pin hole to get started then use the saw to make the groove, keep checking with the string, ideally you want the absolute minimum amount of groove to give enough clearance for the pin to fit to the same point you reamed it too....... sorry if this sounds like gibberish, but its sunday night and i'm a little tired |
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| Author: | crowduck [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 8:34 am ] |
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StewMac sells a little saw for $3 designed to cut slots in bridge pin holes and to ramp the slots. CrowDuck |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 10:05 am ] |
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I'm absolutely against using unslotted bridge pins. Without all the bridge plate patches and replacements, cracked tops and bridges, etc., I would loose at least 60 to 300 dollars of repair on most of the acoustics that come through! 
Slotted bridge pins, Taylor fret wire, and Gibson headstocks are blessings to a repair shop.
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| Author: | PaddyD [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 11:31 am ] |
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great idea, the stewmac blade is kind of "budget" now its easy to put a decent blade in |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:33 pm ] |
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I had turned my StewMac blade around to cut on the upstroke, but that jigsaw blade looks even better. |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:13 pm ] |
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Similar to TJK, I made my own, just take a piece or 5/8 hardwood dowel and cut a slot with the jigsaw blade and epoxy it in. Costs about $1.50 and works great. |
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| Author: | Mario [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:25 pm ] |
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Those jigsaw blades work even better, and faster, in a, drum roll please.... ...jigsaw <bg> really... |
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:59 pm ] |
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Bravo Mario! I, too, use a jigsaw to slot the bridge!!!! |
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| Author: | Mario [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 2:03 pm ] |
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Makes you wonder, eh, Sylvan? |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 2:23 pm ] |
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You guys are much braver than I. |
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:49 am ] |
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Rod - I put a leather pad on the bottom of a cheap jigsaw to protect the guitar. Filed a blade until it was smaller than a 3/16" hole. Much better control and much straighter slots than I could ever achieve with Stu Mac's hand saw. If you try it, I think you will be really suprised! |
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| Author: | Mario [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:25 pm ] |
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2 layers of masking tape on the bottom of mine. I'm too cheap to use my good leather on a $10 Black&Decker yard sale higsaw <bg> There's a key-hole blade that works great and fits the holes; just grind down the set on the teeth to narrow the kerf... |
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| Author: | Don A [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:27 pm ] |
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Thanks Mario and Sylvan.  I may finally have a use for my Black and Decker zip saw. 
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| Author: | Rod True [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:48 pm ] |
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You guys rock, that's what I'm going to try on the next one (gulp). |
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 2:02 pm ] |
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good tip Mario and Sylvan. I think I'll need a smaller jigsaw that what I have (A big rigid saw), but I'll go and get me a little one for this! I have milled the slots in using a cross sliding vise before and it works REALLY cleanly, but takes too long. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 6:35 pm ] |
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You can get really thin, narrow, fine-kerfed jigsaw blades for cutting wood or laminates (those might prefect chipout at the top, actually). I'm not going to try this with my 900 watt saw, because it's too heavy. I'd guess you want to curb the pendulum action to a bare minimum? |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:04 am ] |
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This may be a dumb question, but are you guys using the jigsaw to cut the slots before you glue the bridge to the top, or after? Seems like it would be easy to do before but you would have to go back and reslot for the top and bridge plate. |
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| Author: | guitarjtb [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:10 pm ] |
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The top 5 stupid questions to ask about slotting a bridge: Number 5.............. Is 2 inches too deep for the slot? Number 4........... Should I try slotting with a jigsaw while watching TV? Number 3........... Is it ok to use the jigsaw after a hard day at the office? Number 2........... Did you say jigsaw or chainsaw? And the number 1 stupid question to ask about slotting a bridge is: What would happen if I plugged this SUPER HEAVY DUTY jigsaw into 220 volts???? 
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| Author: | LanceK [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:23 pm ] |
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YIKES!!!! The pickguard looks salvageable
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| Author: | LarryH [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:28 pm ] |
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LOL Funny (Sad?) Didn't really look like the size of that blade ever represented a serious attempt but I guess that should lighten the top a bit. |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:06 pm ] |
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OOOOKAYYYYYY!, I'LL REMEMBER WHAT NOT TO ASK ?
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